My next sortie into Egypt after many
years ...
Giza
was a huge tourist hive, almost unrecognizable as a village from
forty years ago. Cairo's urban growth has stretched all around.
Teeming streets. We had to wait, patiently, in lineups, even to reach
our lunch place.
While
waiting and viewing the colourful passing scene (with a multitude of
camels) we were treated to a furious harangue at the noon call to
prayers.
Can
hardly blame the imam
when you see an anomaly like this. He ranted for some time, calling
on the faithful to reject the unbelievers ... for instance, the mostly-oblivious dumb tourists? Our local guide Saliba was
embarrassed when I asked him to translate the gist and presumably
softened the message for me.
The
lunch venue was excellent with a postcard view of the pyramids, well
staged. Literally. In the evening one would see a son
et lumiรจre
show from here, standard productions these days.
We
were told lunch would be only soup, mezzes
and fruit, i.e. no traditional (substantial) third course. Fine with
me for sure but I pitied some of the big-guy eaters in our group. A
few in our group were already experiencing the irregular urgency to
run to the john which involved frantic searching for the elusive
piastres
needed to purchase toilet paper! We saw the pyramids from all sides.
Now, tourists are only allowed to climb one small low-level section
of the Great Pyramid. Nevertheless, the blocks are huge,
and progress is slow.
I was photographing
my friend Mary Ann doing some climbing when this sandstorm blew up,
just amazing and quite scary. It only lasted about a half hour, but
visibility was hampered as in a snow storm. The effect of getting
grit in your face and eyes was worse. Forewarned is forearmed; always
have a handy scarf around your neck. Hoping the camera still works.
While
some trooped off to see the recent excavation of a boat (yes, buried
under the desert sand), yours truly spent time talking to camels and
joking with the predatory camel-ride salesmen. We had a prearranged
ride coming up so no need to haggle over their extortionate starting
prices. Had some sign language discourse with a cop on a
camel. He was happy with being slipped a little baksheesh for
posing.
Finally,
time for our camel ride that couldn't come soon enough. Guide
Saliba had arranged it and promised me I would have “all the time
you want.” He lied ... sigh. Sadly, the briefest ride on
record. Not a real ride at all, just a rushed photo opp for a short
distance, among an enthusiastic group of camel tenders pestering for
more tips. You could say I was not impressed.
However. The
glorious monuments are what we came to see; they are enduring and
spectacular. So, it seems, is the industry they inevitably generated.
©
2014 Brenda Dougall Merriman. All rights reserved.
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