S'Hertogenbosch, Netherlands 2019

The Netherlands ‒ land of infinite possibilities for day trips to interesting villages, towns, and cities. The city of 'S-Hertogenbosch, better known as Den Bosch, was on my agenda. Mild curiosity about painter-artist Hieronymous Bosch (ca.1450-1516) motivated me, and where better to learn about him than the Jheronimus Bosch Art Centre in his native city.

The Netherlands has many renowned Renaissance artists but this is one I knew nothing about other than the vaguest notion that he created fantastical, sometimes scary figures. Probably nearly everyone has chanced upon a scene from his The Garden of Earthly Delights at some time, or The Last Judgement, perhaps even without knowing it. The Art Centre does not have original paintings; instead it features high quality reproductions for the purpose of being able to view the full opus in one place. But the Centre has more ... from his "wondrous world" as they call it.

The venue is inspired: formerly St James (Sint Jacobus) Church, the gallery occupies most of the interior. Many of the church's original, traditional art works have been left in place, a study in contrasting styles and spirit. Although religious subjects and biblical references were his forte, Bosch had his own inimitable additions.

The Centre also offers art education programs, painting courses, special exhibits, choral concerts, and a replica of Bosch's workshop (he had assistants and family members working for him). Guided tours or self-guides are available.

The Garden of Earthly Delights takes centre stage. I learned that the Dutch name of the triptych is Der Garten der Luste which seems more to the point of humanity's fall from grace. Certainly art critics have not been able to interpret the meanings of many unique symbols and details used by Bosch. Demons and imps, the seven deadly sins, follies, absurdities, are scattered through his visions of heaven and hell.

Centre Panel, Der Garten der Luste

One detail, centre panel

Bosch came from a family of painters and in his lifetime his works were widely sought, bringing commissions from the aristocratic and wealthy of Europe. Triptychs were popular. Clients would be discreetly painted in. What little is known about the man himself comes from his membership in, and the archives of the Brotherhood of our Lady. His penchant for often including unexpected, whimsical figures prompted the gallery to have three-dimensional models made.

From up in the choir loft one gets a wider perspective.

Then there is the church tower, overlooking the city, one view toward the neighbouring Cathedral of St John. It was a drizzly day.

Even some of the city canals evoke the spirit of Bosch. Clearly, his boundless creativity struck a deep chord in his contemporary world. His satire is not so far from the endemic corruption being exposed today.

© 2019 Brenda Dougall Merriman

A Sea-less Beach

Small and little-known (outside their national borders) deserts and semi-desert arid areas crop up in the world, not all of them in year-round tropical latitudes. For example Bulgaria's Stone Desert; Tabernas Desert near Almería, Spain; or the Kyzyl Kum, shared by Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. Certainly not all deserts are populated with camels and covered with sand.

Yet sand dunes are a geographic feature often associated with camel riding (at least in my mind) but also with great bodies of water, appearing on every continent. Dunes can be found on many coastlines around the world; the Great Lakes have them too!

  

Aside from my frivolous "beach" remark, De Haere Nature Reserve in the Netherlands is one of the unusual small inland pockets of sand; not to be confused with the manor house of the same name (an estate for visitors to tour, with related activities). The now-protected conservation area is north of Apeldoorn in the Veluwe hills, by the village of Nunspeet. I'm sure there is a scientific, historical explanation for this small and secluded anomaly. How did this sand mass appear in an unlikely place?

A Google view ...

The last Ice Age left a pool of melt water between the retreating ice and the slope of the moraine it created. "During this period, sand over sand was deposited."[1] For centuries some grasses made it a suitable area for grazing animals but probably only two hundred years ago, agricultural drainage of remaining swamp water, over-grazing, and shifting sands completely dried it up. Low bushes, heather, and mosses can be seen in the periphery but little takes root in the moving sands that inexorably change shape to their own rhythm.

Unlike Holland's national parks featuring immense dunes by the sea, this miniature enclave is hidden within a scrubby pine forest planted in the modern era. The forest also houses a secret underground war-time hiding place. Now that is intriguing ... and deeply disturbing.

A great venue for a picnic or a trail ride if you have a horse. Here I am with not enough photographs after the fact, not enough for true appreciation of this little gem. Although walking through fine sand on a perfect sunny day is tiring ... or good exercise!

  

[1] Nunspeet Village, ""De Haere," http://www.nunspeetvillage.nl/groen/n020.html.

Photographs: CDM

© 2018 Brenda Dougall Merriman

Utrecht, Netherlands 2016

A beauty of a July morning to herald a day trip to this old Netherlands city, one of the most historic and picturesque in the country. At this time of year, many other tourists had the same idea, yet the streets and cafes are filled with local inhabitants too. Utrecht is a university town; youthful energy and resonance predominate. One thinks of Amsterdam as the ultimate Dutch canal city: Utrecht is more compact and possibly even more scenic.

In the mediaeval centre of town, the deep canals are a magnetic draw. They bear witness to the city's historical importance as a trade centre once on the Rhine River (the main course of which eventually strayed away). Warehouses for storage were built into the canal banks; now the canals are what remain of once-great commerce. But their presence enables a vibrant string of restaurant and entertainment venues along its reaches.  

To reach canal-side, you descend stairs from the main streets above. A boat tour on the oldest canal (the twelfth-century Oudegracht) took us past centuries-old Dutch institutions and mansions. This is a must to fully appreciate the historical past. The day became colourlessly overcast although still warm and muggy.

Originally a fortified city, the walls and a moat helped protect and preserve the mediaeval structures. Utrecht is a great walking town as well; a great religious centre for a long time, the gothic St Martin's Cathedral on the central square stands among several churches in the old town. Near the fourteenth-century Domtoren bell tower, tallest in the country, the cloister garden of a former monastery is a quiet spot to sit apart from the general melee of narrow streets. 

All this leads up to a search for coffee and lunch. The streets were packed by then; sitting space was at a premium. The past and the present happily contrast each other.

  

.We settled at a cafe on a bridge over a canal. Somehow it did not seem odd to have chicken-lady statue in our midst. Yes, those are chickens she is clutching. The sculptor Van de Vathorst has many statues located around Utrecht. We were seated on the site of a former fish market which he commemorated with this "Sale Woman" although why the chickens was my question; gripping a couple of eels or carp might have been more appropriate.

Even more interesting was the world's tiniest washroom on the premises. It has two cubicles (♀ and ♂) and a sink between. I'm guessing the whole works, all three spaces, was about six feet wide and four feet deep. Each space is large enough to hold one very slender person but not all at the same time. There are three doors. Opening any given door will impale someone at the wash basin and/or jam up the opposite door. By the time we figured out the mechanics and stopped feeling trapped, three of us were in helpless hysterics.

Did I see enough of Utrecht? No. Below is a professional photo (postcard) with optimum lighting conditions.

© 2017 Brenda Dougall Merriman

Keukenhof Gardens, Netherlands 2015

Open to the public for only a few weeks in the spring, Keukenhof is a globally-renowned attraction for garden and park lovers. But employees work year-round to plan the annual spring showing with millions of flowering bulbs and flower grower exhibitions, all the best of Holland's admired horticulture in a peerless display.

The day we spent there was on the cool side; you need an entire day to explore. A bit of rain at noon sent visitors into the cafes and restaurants for soup, sandwiches, pastries. Each year a new theme is offered; in 2015 it was homage to native son Vincent Van Gogh. Various indoor displays highlighted some of his famous paintings.

    And outdoors ― there he is, his good ear showing. 

     Visitors can emulate ...

The tulips and bulbs are splendiferous in the latest varieties showcased by participating growers.

  

But that's far from being everything ... it's a good thing a map is provided.

Acres and acres of gloriously designed colour and texture. A dream on every gardener's bucket list.

© 2016 Brenda Dougall Merriman