Tinghir, Morocco 2017

Travelling with Doug Baum means visiting people in their homes, learning about their livelihoods, seeing parts of a country off the well-trod landmarks, but not ignoring major historic sites. Morocco itself is more well-known as a tourist destination than say Tunisia, a country of vast contrasts and exceptional beauty. Morocco has much of the same in abundance. In the central to southern part of the Berber lands, interesting towns came one after another, towns we had never heard of before.

Tinghir (aka Tinerhir) is one. The Todgha River once carved its way from the High Atlas mountains, creating a stunning, deep, narrow canyon before emerging into the desert, creating a fertile oasis that Tinghir now occupies.

We check into the centrally-situated Hotel Tomboctou before dinner. Heather and Catherine then go to a traditional, if spartan, hammam for bathing and refreshing. I decline; the heat of a standard sauna-type experience triggers fibromyalgia flares and worse. Mark chooses the backpacker's laundry remedy of plunging into the hotel pool fully clothed.

Photo credit: Heather Daveno

Tomboctou is a family-built kasbah of 1944 vintage with reception rooms and galleries intended to entertain important guests. Converted now for hotel usage, its high ceilings and several storeys (and bedroom furnishings) are no less impressive for passing tourists.

After dark, it is time to meet Doug's friend Said, the camel man who never stops smiling. Said has invited us to dinner at the compound where he lives as a single man, with several single sisters, a married sister and her family, and his parents, all with their own quarters. The man is as friendly and cheerful as his photo as he ushers us into the reception room. Across the courtyard yonder we can hear activity in the communal kitchen. We settle in with the obligatory mint tea, observing the homage to (and gossip about) the royal family. 

 

It isn't long before Said's sisters and mother show up to greet us; vivacious, extrovert sister Leila frequently sits with us at the low table for dining. Their kitchen results appear course by course over the hours. First the bread and olives with kefta, itself very filling! Then chicken brochettes. The main tagine of chicken and vegetables arrives. It's so tempting to drift back onto the pile of cushions behind us ... it's been a long day on the road meeting Doug's various friends in unusual settings.

Leila insists on slicing apples as the final course and feeding them to us who are far too full to digest another thing. Same with the bananas. When Said enthusiastically reaches around to shake various hands, he tries to high five me, but I give him the bump, to his and Doug's great amusement. A little nap would be good at that time, but Said is just getting into high gear.

Out come the drums (did someone know Doug was once a drummer in a band?) while Said's father Youseff joins us and other family members slip into the room. Mohamed produces his flute for accompaniment and for a time we have a chorus of drums and boisterous singing. Sitting beside me, Youseff's face is positively lit with joy at the turn of events. Heather is happily curled up in the cushions. As the drumming slowly decreases and my head is nodding I looked to Doug for signs of it's past our bedtime, time to take our leave.

 

No ... Leila and Mama suddenly reappear with armfuls of bright fabrics and manhandle Heather and I into dressing up. They don't know my torn shoulder tendons make it torture for me. Everyone has to pose us for posterity. Nevertheless you can see we are almost asleep on our feet. Extensive goodbyes before we get to the hotel at 11:30 pm, sated and drooping.

Next morning is cool but bright. We drive to Said's which in daylight we see is on a great viewpoint of the oasis. His two "tourist" camels, very appealing animals, are standing outside; it's how Said earns money. We must have tea, in the sunny courtyard.

Photo credit: Heather Daveno

We take a long winding drive to the beautiful park-like valley floor and famed Todra Gorge. It's a longish walk on a slow upgrade through the amazing gorge of towering cliffs. Imagine the force of that river over thousands of years. Now it is more like a stream that continues to sustain oasis land and life. Keen hikers and rock climbers can find numerous routes here. I'm lagging, caught by hanging carpets and clothing irresistibly displayed by a smattering of vendors.

Yet again to say a fond, final goodbye to Said at his place of business, a slightly different viewpoint over the oasis. Doug checks some camel teeth to the fascination of local bystanders.

Back down the hill for a surprise. We park by cultivated fields ― growing plots for individual families to raise their vegetables or crops for their animals. A narrow little path through this toward a lovely forest gives a spectacular view of the town across the fields.

The surprise at the other side of the forest is the 800-year-old site of the Iklane mosque and madrasa. In disuse, parts of it are crumbling but some restoration is underway.

Photo credit: Heather Daveno

Photo credit: Heather Daveno

 

Photo credit: Heather Daveno

The caretaker shows us through the complex, chatting with Doug. So old, so impressive, details of architectural glory. A well in the middle of it. Yes, I climbed all the stairs. On the way back, pause to inhale the perfect town view against the bluest sky. One of those precious Moments.

© 2017 Brenda Dougall Merriman

Riads, Kasbahs, Lodgings: Morocco

Riad = originally a town house with rooms around a courtyard with a garden and fountain, of at least three storeys; without a garden and fountain it is a Dar, but the name riad is now generally applied to both. Some of these old structures in urban medinas (old towns) have been renovated to serve as guesthouses. Most riads have less than a dozen rooms to rent.

Kasbah = originally a fortified building that housed a ruling family or several families, so sizes vary. It is surrounded by high walls and has at least one impressive entrance gate. In these places, many have very old locks and keys to ornate bedroom doors.

I have had to borrow from my companion Heather Daveno (HD below) because her great interest in architectural detail, crafts, and textiles make her photographs beautifully precise. For further illumination, please visit her August Phoenix Hats albums: https://www.facebook.com/pg/AugustPhoenix2/photos/?tab=albums.

Dar el-Kebira in Rabat

Our first taste of living (sleeping) in Moorish architecture and Moroccan decor ― encouraging a princess feeling. El-Kebira is located deep in the very narrow, twisting alleys of the Rabat medina. To transport luggage from a car park way outside the medina, a Dar employee met us and used a hand-pulled cart (we were a small group). The entrance door gives no hint to the beauties inside (and this is true of most guesthouse doors in a medina). We were enthralled with the ambiance and furnishings, high ceilings and exotic textiles. Typically, all bedrooms open onto the central courtyard, now the reception area, with walkways around the upper floors. Breakfast was served on the rooftop patio to start the day perfectly.

Courtesy HD

Al Khalifa in Chefchaouen

Al Khalifa is actually a small modern hotel but its location on a mountainside steps away from entering the fascinating medina makes it special. It is adjacent to a little river that rolls and plunges toward the Atlantic, a river where women still find pools to do their laundry. Never mind I had to trudge to my room on the third floor (elevators are rare in small multiple-storey lodgings). Princess time in a king size bed and a bathroom with a lovely sink and fixtures of ornate design. The sliding pocket door into my bathroom was gorgeous.

Mohayut in Merzouga

This hotel on the edge of the Sahara is a recent build in a one-storey variation of traditional style, something akin to a kasbah. A swimming pool is the centrepiece of a large courtyard where guest rooms are accessed. Another courtyard serves as the outdoor dining area, a smaller one beside the dining room. Perhaps there are more; our stay was regrettably brief. A guardian camel helps circulate the pool water. From the rooftop you can see the desert in all directions; I watched a camel safari returning from a desert ride. The entire place exudes peace and privacy, a favourite with everyone.

Courtesy HD

Note the Berber symbols

Breakfast at Mohayut

Tomboctou in Tinghir

Tinghir is a town in the heart of the beautiful Todra Valley. Tomboctou is billed as a hotel but was built as a family kasbah in 1944, of traditional mud-and-straw brick construction. Converted now to a 16-room guest house, it's located in the central part of town (but not in the medina). Here a swimming pool dominates a courtyard adjacent to reception and dining area ― obviously new additions. On the left is the original kasbah, three tall storeys for guest rooms; here, the central courtyard (not open to the sky) displays a number of antique African carvings and art works. By the dining room, models of kasbahs have been set up. It has a roof terrace "to watch the stars" but we were very busy elsewhere that evening.

Entrance to the original kasbah; from the hotel website

Looking into the interior courtyard; courtesy HD

Some of the African exhibits

Tomboctou restaurant; courtesy HD

Kasbah Ait ben Moro in Skoura

A true kasbah dating back to the 18th century with the high fortified walls, originally home to several families who are still represented on staff. It has been fully restored for guests and is a pleasure to explore. You can see the height of its several storeys. Myriad passages and stairways open onto small courtyards, with lovely gardens and/or countryside views. Flanked at the entrance by a pottery business and a women's weaving co-op, Ait Ben Moro is one of the most popular kasbah destinations for tourists.

Photo from Ait Ben Moro website

  

Riad Dar Dzahra in Taroudant

Part of this riad is three hundred years old so again the sense of history is around you. Bedrooms are lavishly adorned with the expected Moroccan furniture and finishing touches; the bathrooms feature modern decorative sinks and hardware. The dining area, indoors and out, includes a house cat. A garden wall surrounds three sides of the pool with a variety of horticultural samples. Parking is available at the back and the medina beckons at the front doorstep with all its fascinating souks.

Riad Adriana in Marrakech

Perhaps the most memorable of all, this exquisite riad endowed the most "royal" feeling of all. Not the easiest place to find in the warren of the medina's little streets, but so well placed around the corner (or two) from the souks of the busy bazaar. Elegant rooms, mosaic floors, Berber carpets and blankets, carved pillars, copper bathroom fixtures, and scattered rose petals to welcome you. The open air courtyard with its fountain is a peaceful place to sit, as is the roof terrace where breakfast was served. Mint tea is customarily served in any riad or kasbah to greet new arrivals.

© 2017 Brenda Dougall Merriman