Muscat, Oman 2013-2018

The gleaming city of Muscat sits in folds of the western el-Hajar mountains, sloping to a natural harbour. Facing north and east into the Gulf of Oman, this is largely a twentieth-century developed city. Refreshingly, it avoids the ostentatious sky-high architecture of many oil-rich cities. Oman's iconic frankincense burner dominates one hill, symbolizing a long history of tribal/nomadic trading.

Muscat and indeed the entire country are proudly conscious of their Bedouin traditions. A charming diorama at the lovely small Bait al Zubair Museum displays the city origins, not so long ago. Certainly it was long known as a trading port.

Oman's national animal the oryx; a handpainted display at the museum

The enlightened Sultan Qaboos bin Said has led his country for almost fifty years. All power rests in him as king and benign dictator. He modernized Oman from poverty to prosperity with impressive infrastructure, universal education and health care, and freedom of religion. His likeness, at varying ages and stages, can be seen everywhere in Muscat.

Playing a mainly neutral position in Middle East politics, and also between the West and Iran, peaceful diplomacy is more the Sultan's style. The question of succession hangs over his people: he has no children, but he has a number of other family candidates to choose from. His principal palace here in Muscat is not open to the public. On the royal shield (and national flag), the khanjar (curved dagger) is another distinctive Omani symbol. Known for centuries in this area, it represents heritage and, depending on the engravings and precious-metal workmanship, social status.

But the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is open to visitors. Non-Muslims are welcome ‒ requiring modest, covered-up dress and doffing the shoes. One can only gape at the spectacular interior — the massive chandelier, the enormous handwoven carpet, and stunning mosaics. Outside, all around the mosque, are acres of space and gardens, areas for placid reflection and admiring the graceful lines of the architecture.

A central gathering place in Muscat is one of my favourite markets, Mutrah Souk. Colours glow and textures commingle, tempting one to choose a souvenir that will recall the ambience. The stall fronts can be deceptive; behind them, merchants often have a large inventory they will eagerly search to find just want you want. If you look like a serious shopper, they will sit you down and serve you tea. To be sure, haggling over prices is customary, but there's little pressure to make a purchase, as Omanis are generally polite and respectful.

By evening light, traffic seems to hush on the Corniche and the call to prayer echoes across the harbour. Peace. The dhow is another well-loved symbol, the fisherman's traditional boat.

A dhow sits in front of the Sultan's private yacht.

Muscat, don't change! Oman, stay stable!

© 2019 Brenda Dougall Merriman