This
post is pure fantasy. Because I missed my only chance to get to Al
Ain, "garden city of the Emirates." Let's say, it's what I
would have done, had I gone.
[We
spent ten days sailing and touring in the hottest weather I've ever
experienced, unseasonal even for the Middle East. The itinerary was
made for me — new places like Khasab (Oman), Doha (Qatar),
and Abu Dhabi (U.A.E.) ... more on some of those places elsewhere.
But our final port, Abu Dhabi, promised an excursion to Al Ain and
for whatever reason, it's been high on my bucket list. However,
passengers were dropping out of shore excursions, unable to cope with
the heat; only five minutes in the sun, between leaving the coach and
entering the site to visit, melted us into dripping sweat and numbing
of the brain. Stay out too long and we would literally begin to cook.
More evidence of climate change. Finally I too admitted
defeat; having the added sensory burden of fibromyalgia was too much
of a health risk.]
My
fantasy trip, perhaps, but based on collected facts. Abu Dhabi is one
of the seven United Arab Emirates (U.A.E.) and its territory includes
extensive land regions east and south of the city. Al Ain is situated
about two hours inland from the city, verging on the fabled Empty
Quarter desert (Rub Al Khali) ... a desert of epic journeys in the
1940s by British adventurer Wilfrid Thesiger. An exhibit of his
photographs and other mementos is in the museum of Al Jahili, said to
be the welcome sight of civilization he spotted after completing a
crossing from the south.[1] Al Jahili Fort is now restored to its
unique 1891 origins. There I would be, scanning from its circular
heights for signs of a camel train.
 |
| Al Jahili Fort |
 |
| Wilfrid Thesiger |
I
can scarcely imagine what Thesiger endured after leaving Salalah in
the south. His Arabian Sands is regarded as a classic of
travel literature, describing the lives of Bedu tribes, "probably
the finest book ever written about Arabia and a tribute to a world
now lost forever."[2] I.e., a world before oil was discovered.
My own taste of the Empty Quarter was five years ago before scrambling around the debatable "lost city of Ubar," in Thesiger's
time a site still buried and unknown. It is beside Shisur, a village
familiar to Thesiger. Certainly the Bedouin are more accommodating
now than some of the explorer's encounters with suspicion or
hostility.
 |
| A 1948 Thesiger photo of Qasr Al Muwaiji |
The
rugged Al Hajar mountains are on Al Ain's eastern flank; landmark
Jebel Hafeet mountain overlooks the city for excellent views, highest peak in
the Emirate.
Al
Ain itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as one of the oldest
continual habitations on earth. Centred on and blessed with a large,
flourishing palm oasis ‒
hence its appellation as "garden city" ‒
it recently grew from a village to tourist proportions. "This
date palm oasis has been recognised by the United Nation’s Food and
Agriculture Organisation (FAO) for its importance as a repository of
genetic resources, biodiversity and cultural heritage."[3]
Strolling shady pathways in
the oasis you can explore groves of tropical fruit trees and inspect
working parts of the original irrigation system constructed 3,000
years ago.
 |
| Oasis |
 |
| Dates |
Besides
Al Jahili, a number of forts that once protected plantations in the
oasis have been re-purposed. Of heritage and cultural interest are Al
Ain National Museum with sections on archaeology and traditional
Bedouin crafts; the Palace Museum was once the home of the UAE
founder Sheik Zayed bin Sultan al Nahyam, renovated in traditional
design to exhibit the ruler's lifestyle and diplomatic relations.
Qasr
Al Muwaiji is
the
birthplace of the current
Sheikh Khalifa of Abu Dhabi Emirate, displaying lush gardens and
material related to the ruling family. And more ... Al Qattara Fort
houses a gallery and centre for all manner of arts. Oh yes, I would
be lingering over the jewellery exhibits, the colourful pottery,
historical garments, the ancient artifacts. A handicrafts market
takes place on seasonal weekends, including tastes of local food.
 |
| Al Ain Palace Museum |
And
then! The renowned camel market of Al Ain, apparently one of the few
remaining livestock markets in the Emirates. Here the beasts are
traded ―
for breeding, racing, meat, or milk. I might lose myself
freely wandering among the dusty pens, admiring and taking
photographs (only with permission). Camels are and always will be an
essential part of the heritage and fabric of the Bedouin, whether
nomads or urban dwellers. Of course racing has become a national
pastime with all the entailed competition and prize money.
Al
Ain has other
tourist attractions of
modern variety not to
be mentioned in the same breath. Great
changes have come to the U.A.E. in the last fifty years, but Al Ain
is determined to maintain an old and proud culture. So
let's keep
my fantasy trip far
from the Emirates'
glitzy
shopping malls and
outré
architecture.
Sources:
[1]
https://www.timeoutabudhabi.com/art/features/74944-in-the-footsteps-of-wilfred-thesiger
[3]
https://visitabudhabi.ae/en/explore/regions/al.ain.aspx
Also,
"Al Ain," Yalla,
the tourist guide for Abu Dhabi,
Edition 2, 2018.
©
2018
Brenda Dougall Merriman
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