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20 August 2018

Lisbon (and Madrid) 1961


An item like this poster reminds me of how many marvellous times I have had, some of them eons ago. The memories may not be perfectly detailed but the feelings rush back with intensity.



I dragged my reluctant friend to Campo Pequeno in Lisbon for a bullfight night. She was likely recalling our recent visit to the bullring in Madrid with its then-mediaeval facilities, most vividly remembered for the muddy, stinking hole in the ground that passed for a senoras toilet ... from the stylized drama of the event to the essentially primitive.


Plaza Toros les Ventas, Madrid
I'm certain there must be upgrades in Las Ventas since then! The world's most famous venue of the bullfight is massive and of neo-Moorish design.



But back to Lisbon. Paco Camino's name stands out on the poster I saved. He was then twenty-one years old, having been endowed with full matador status only a few months earlier. It was a privilege to see him as a rising star, before he eventually became one of Spain's most honoured toreros.

 


Bulls are not killed in Portugal and their corridas de touros are different from Spain's. The formal sequence begins with the "dance" of the cavaleiro on horseback; he (or she, as the case may be) will plant three or four bandarilhas in the bull's back. Assisted by bandarilheiros on foot with capes to goad and position the unpredictable bull, the horseman's skill and grace are the highlight of the performance. A knowledgeable crowd of fans roars its approval or disapproval. Portuguese Lusitano horses are specially trained for the arena. Yes, women are nowadays fairly represented in the ranks of cavaleiras.


Campo Pequeno, Lisbon
The second stage resembles the running of the bulls at Pamplona to the amateur eye. Eight forcados will enter the arena on foot with no protection; they form a line to tackle the by-now angry bull. The goal is to subdue the bull and the front man's job is to secure the charging animal's head so all his pals can pile on. Their combined weight eventually tires the animal who is led out of the ring. Let's just say it's a very dangerous activity, yet there's no lack of daredevils wanting to participate. Some have dubbed them the Suicide Squad.






Paco Camino would not have been performing on a horse. But José Julío was Portuguese, so I can assume we saw both Spanish and Portuguese styles that evening. Of course I had to make online visits to refresh my memory.

Abhorrent to many people, the bullfight is nevertheless tradition, pure theatre with Roman gladiatorial origins, a deep part of another culture. Bullfighters are never, ever called toreadors as Bizet's opera Carmen popularized ... please: it's matador.


Sources:
Wikipedia; http://www.gomadrid.com/activity/plaza-toros-las-ventas.html; 


© 2018 Brenda Dougall Merriman

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