Travelling
with Doug Baum means visiting people in their homes, learning about
their livelihoods, seeing parts of a country off the well-trod
landmarks, but not ignoring major historic sites. Morocco itself is
more well-known as a tourist destination than say Tunisia, a country
of vast contrasts and exceptional beauty. Morocco has much of the
same in abundance. In the central to southern part of the Berber
lands, interesting towns came one after another, towns we had never
heard of before.
We
check into the centrally-situated Hotel Tomboctou before dinner.
Heather and Catherine then go to a traditional, if spartan, hammam
for bathing and refreshing. I decline; the heat of a standard
sauna-type experience triggers fibromyalgia flares and worse. Mark
chooses the backpacker's laundry remedy of plunging into the hotel
pool fully clothed.
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| Photo credit: Heather Daveno |
Tomboctou
is a family-built kasbah of 1944 vintage with reception rooms and
galleries intended to entertain important guests. Converted now for
hotel usage, its high ceilings and several storeys (and bedroom
furnishings) are no less impressive for passing tourists.
After
dark, it is time to meet Doug's friend Said, the camel man who
never stops smiling. Said has invited us to dinner at the compound
where he lives as a single man, with several single sisters, a
married sister and her family, and his parents, all with their own
quarters. The man is as friendly and cheerful as his photo as he
ushers us into the reception room. Across the courtyard yonder we can
hear activity in the communal kitchen. We settle in with the
obligatory mint tea, observing the homage to (and gossip about) the
royal family.
It
isn't long before Said's sisters and mother show up to greet us;
vivacious, extrovert sister Leila frequently sits with us at the low
table for dining. Their kitchen results appear course by course over
the hours. First
the bread and olives with kefta,
itself very
filling!
Then
chicken brochettes. The
main tagine of chicken and vegetables arrives.
It's so
tempting
to drift
back onto the pile of cushions behind us
... it's been a long day on the road meeting Doug's various friends
in unusual settings.
Leila
insists
on slicing apples as
the final course and
feeding them to us who are
far too full to digest
another thing. Same with the bananas. When Said
enthusiastically reaches
around to shake various hands, he tries
to high five me, but I give
him the bump,
to his
and Doug's
great amusement. A
little nap would be good at that time, but Said is
just getting into high gear.
Out
come
the drums (did
someone
know Doug was once a drummer in a band?)
while Said's father Youseff joins
us and other family members slip into the room. Mohamed produces
his flute for
accompaniment and
for a time we have a chorus of drums and boisterous singing. Sitting
beside me, Youseff's face is
positively lit with joy at the turn of events. Heather is
happily curled up in the cushions. As the drumming slowly decreases
and
my head is nodding I
looked
to Doug for signs of it's
past our
bedtime,
time to take our leave.
No
... Leila and Mama suddenly reappear with armfuls of bright fabrics
and manhandle Heather and I into dressing up. They
don't
know my torn shoulder tendons make
it torture for me. Everyone has
to pose us for posterity. Nevertheless you
can see we are almost
asleep
on our feet. Extensive goodbyes before
we
get to the hotel at 11:30 pm, sated
and drooping.
Next
morning is cool but bright. We
drive
to Said's
which in
daylight we
see is on a great viewpoint
of the oasis.
His two "tourist" camels,
very appealing animals,
are standing outside; it's how Said
earns money. We must have tea,
in
the sunny
courtyard.
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| Photo credit: Heather Daveno |
We
take a long winding drive to the beautiful park-like valley floor and
famed Todra Gorge. It's
a longish walk on a slow upgrade through the amazing gorge of
towering cliffs. Imagine
the force of that river over thousands of years. Now
it
is more
like a
stream that continues
to
sustain
oasis
land and life.
Keen
hikers
and
rock climbers can
find numerous routes
here. I'm
lagging,
caught by hanging carpets and clothing irresistibly displayed by a
smattering of vendors.
Yet
again to say a
fond, final goodbye
to Said
at his place of business, a slightly
different
viewpoint over the oasis.
Doug checks some
camel teeth to the fascination of local bystanders.
Back
down the hill for a surprise. We park by cultivated fields ―
growing plots for individual families to raise their vegetables or
crops for their animals. A narrow little path through this toward a
lovely forest gives a spectacular view of the town across the fields.
The
surprise at the other side of the forest is the 800-year-old site of
the Iklane mosque and madrasa. In disuse, parts of it are crumbling
but some restoration is underway.
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| Photo credit: Heather Daveno |
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| Photo credit: Heather Daveno |
 |
| Photo credit: Heather Daveno |
The
caretaker shows us through the complex, chatting with Doug. So old,
so impressive, details of architectural glory. A well in the middle
of it. Yes, I climbed all the stairs. On the way back, pause to
inhale the perfect town view against the bluest sky. One of those
precious Moments.
©
2017
Brenda Dougall Merriman
1 comment:
great photos
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